How to Spot Fake Pokémon Cards: A Guide for Australian Collectors

Counterfeit Pokémon cards turn up online and in person, and some can look right in a quick photo. There's no single trick that proves a card is real. The safest approach is to compare the card side by side with a genuine copy of the exact same card, run a few non-destructive checks, and buy from sources you trust.

This guide covers singles and sealed product. If you're still deciding where to buy, start with our Where to Buy Pokémon Cards in Australia guide.

What Pokémon itself says

The Pokémon Company's support page on counterfeit cards makes four practical points:

• Counterfeit cards are often easy to see through when you hold them up to a bright light.
• A local shop that specialises in trading cards may be able to look at a card you're unsure about.
• Official product images are on the Pokémon website, so get familiar with what genuine products look like.
• Fake booster packs can be very hard to pick. Pokémon says a pack priced dramatically below the suggested retail price is "a near certain warning" that it's counterfeit. Price alone still can't prove a card or pack is fake or genuine, and genuine clearance or discounted stock exists, so treat a low price as a warning to look closer rather than as proof on its own.

Step 1: Identify exactly which card it is

Every check that follows depends on comparing like with like. Before you judge anything, pin down:

• Card name and number (for example 006/165), printed on the card.
• Set, from the set symbol and the set name or code.
• Language. English, Japanese and other language cards are printed differently, so compare against the same language.
• Finish and rarity. Holo, reverse holo, full art, textured, special illustration rare and promo versions of the same Pokémon can look very different from each other.
• Era. Older cards were printed differently from modern ones, and print quality varied even within a set.

Then find a reference: a genuine copy of that exact same card (same set, language and finish), or the official image in the Pokémon TCG card database. Not every older or promo card is listed, so a missing entry isn't proof of a fake on its own.

Step 2: Side-by-side checks (none of them damage the card)

Compare your card with the reference under the same light. Look for differences against that known genuine copy. These checks can raise or lower suspicion; none of them, on their own, authenticates a card.

1. The back. Compare colours, the swirl pattern and the Poké Ball against a genuine back from the same era and language. Japanese and English backs are different designs.
2. Text and symbols. Check the name, HP, attack names and text, energy symbols, weakness and retreat icons, illustrator credit and the copyright line at the bottom against the same genuine card. Look for details that don't match the reference. Genuine cards have had real printing errors too, so one odd detail isn't proof either way.
3. The holo or texture. Compare the pattern and where it sits on the card with a genuine copy of the same card. Different sets and rarities use different holo patterns and textures, and some genuine cards have no texture at all. There's no single pattern every real card has.
4. Colour and print quality. Compare artwork sharpness, colour and borders with the same genuine card. Differences can be a clue, not a verdict.
5. Size and edges. A standard Pokémon card is the same size as other standard trading cards. Lay it on top of a genuine card of the same era and check the corners and cut.
6. The light test. Hold the card and a genuine card of a similar era up to the same bright light. Pokémon says counterfeits are often easier to see through. That is only a clue: results vary with card type and era, so only compare against a similar genuine card, and don't treat the light test as proof on its own.

Myths to be careful of

You'll see plenty of "all real cards have X" rules online. Most of them have exceptions:

• Holo, texture and finish vary between sets, rarities and languages.
• Card feel and gloss vary between eras and print runs.
• Weight differences between real and fake cards can be tiny, and genuine cards vary too. Weight alone can't authenticate a card.
• A layer inside the card isn't something you can check without damaging it.
• Spelling and font mismatches against a known genuine copy are a warning sign, but genuine misprints exist.

No single check proves a card is genuine. If several things don't match a known genuine copy of the same card, treat the card as suspect.

Don't use destructive tests

Don't rip, bend, scratch, burn or use solvents on a card to "test" it. You'll destroy its value if it's real, and most of these tests don't prove anything anyway.

Fakes vs proxies vs custom cards

Proxies are stand-in cards some players use for casual play, and custom or fan-made cards are often sold as art. Unofficial, proxy and custom cards are not genuine Pokémon cards. They should be labelled clearly as unofficial. Agreeing to use a proxy in a casual game doesn't make it tournament-legal or an official card. Ask the seller directly whether a card is an official Pokémon card, and get the answer in writing.

Buying sealed product

Sealed packs and boxes are harder to check than singles. Pokémon notes that fake booster packs can be very difficult to tell from real ones.

• Compare the packaging with official product images on the Pokémon website.
• Be wary of prices far below suggested retail. Pokémon calls that a near-certain warning, but a low price alone can't prove counterfeit and doesn't mean every discount is fake.
• Look for wrapping that's loose, re-glued or doesn't match the original seal.
• Buy sealed product from stores and sellers you trust.

Buying singles online: what photos to ask for

Before you pay, ask for clear, well-lit photos of:

• The front and the back, out of the sleeve.
• A close-up of the bottom text (illustrator, copyright, set and card number).
• An angled shot showing the holo or texture.
• The card next to a genuine card or a ruler.
• For expensive cards, a short video tilting the card under light.

If a seller won't provide them, walk away. Use payment methods with buyer protection, and keep screenshots of the listing and your messages.

Graded cards: check the cert yourself

For a graded card, look up the certification number on the grading company's own website, for example PSA's Cert Verification. Type in the number printed on the label yourself rather than following a link or QR code from the seller. Then check the card, set, number and grade match the slab.

A match isn't a guarantee. PSA warns that a cert lookup "does not eliminate risk", because criminals sometimes counterfeit labels using real certification numbers. Compare any photos the grading company has of that cert, and check the case for signs it's been opened or tampered with.

Read more about grading in our PSA grading in Australia guide.

Unsure about a card? What to do

1. Don't pay yet, or pause the trade.
2. Compare again against the official image or a genuine copy of the exact card, set, language and finish.
3. Ask the seller for the extra photos listed above.
4. Get a second opinion from a trading card shop or experienced collectors who can see the card in person.
5. If you've already paid and believe you were sold a fake, contact the platform or your payment provider about their dispute process. Report suspected scams to Scamwatch.

Buy with confidence

Buying from a store you trust is the simplest way to avoid fakes. Browse Pokémon singles, learn more in Pokémon card rarities explained and Special Illustration Rares and alt arts, or visit us at Unit 4/2 Templar Pl, Bennetts Green NSW 2290, phone (02) 4049 2264.

Sources (checked 5 November 2026): Pokémon Support, "Did I purchase fake or counterfeit cards?"; PSA Cert Verification; Pokémon TCG card database; Scamwatch.